Example shown: Clear Blue bat top with Mid Collar. Your grip color and collar height will match the options selected when ordering.

01. Acetal and Aluminum Construction

The upper housing is made from polyacetal (POM), while the lower housing uses precision-machined, anodized aluminum. The photos show the upper housing and the machined interior of the lower housing.

Acetal Upper Housing	Aluminum Lower Housing

02. A Samducksa 30-Tension Grommet as Standard

A purple Samducksa 30-tension grommet is fitted as standard. The grommet provides resistance as you move the lever and helps it return to center when released. Try the stock setup first, then consider a replacement if you want to adjust the feel.

03. Omron Microswitches and a Circular Guide

Omron V-16-3C26 microswitches register the four directional inputs. The stock circular guide allows the lever to follow a rounded path at the edge of its travel, while supporting up, down, left, right, and diagonal inputs.

The actuator at the bottom of the shaft presses the metal switch levers to register directional inputs.

Clear Bat Tops · 6 Colors

Select Collar Height and Grip Color Independently

For example, you can choose Mid Collar + Clear Blue or Full Collar + Clear White. Choose the grip color you prefer, and select a collar height that suits your fightstick's top-panel design.

Full Collar

The taller collar extends above the top panel. Use a 35 mm-class opening for a full-collar lever as a fitment reference, and check the actual opening diameter against the collar's outer diameter. Do not force the collar into an opening that is too small.

Full Collar · Note the taller section that extends above the top panel.

Mid Collar

The Mid Collar has a lower profile than the Full Collar. It is the first option to consider for fightsticks with smaller lever openings, but choosing Mid Collar does not guarantee compatibility with every enclosure. Check panel thickness, mounting points, and internal clearance as well.

Mid Collar · Note the lower profile compared with the Full Collar.

The photo shows the separate Mid Collar circular guide.

01. Compare the Mounting Holes

The V6 uses an MJ multi-mounting plate, with overall dimensions of approximately 95 × 65 mm as shown in the drawing. Compare the mounting-hole positions with your enclosure. Matching screw holes alone are not enough if the collar or lower components interfere with the case.

Mounting plate drawing · Dimensions in mm

02. Allow Space Beyond the Body Height

The listed body height is approximately 36 mm, excluding the grip, shaft, and collar. The stated measurement may vary by approximately 2–3 mm. Allow additional clearance above the case floor for the lower shaft, actuator, switch terminals, and wiring.

03. Using 5-Pin Wiring? Prepare a Conversion Harness

The V6 uses an 8-terminal connection to individual microswitches. If your existing lever uses a 5-pin connector, prepare a compatible 5-pin to 8-terminal conversion harness separately. Check both your PCB's pinout and the switch terminal size.

Included Components

Start with the Stock 30-Tension Grommet

The number identifies the stock grommet's tension rating. The resistance you feel can vary with grommet wear, component combinations, and where you hold the grip. First, get familiar with the return-to-center feel and diagonal inputs.

The Circular Guide and Switch Clicks Have Different Roles

The circular guide defines the shape of the lever's travel limit. The clicking sound comes from the microswitches actuating; it does not mean the guide has corners. A circular guide still allows all four cardinal directions and diagonal inputs.

Check V6 Compatibility Before Changing Parts

When choosing a shaft, actuator, bobbin, or guide, check the part's V6 compatibility and dimensions. The V7's Hyper grommet and dedicated bobbin are a different combination from the V6's stock setup. Change one component at a time to make the effects easier to compare.

Finding the Right Combination for You

Start with the stock setup and identify what you would like to change. Consider the grommet if you want a different return-to-center feel, or the actuator if you want to adjust where inputs engage. A change can also affect other inputs, so retest every direction and neutral after replacing parts.

STEP 01

Disconnect Power and Record the Existing Setup

Disconnect your fightstick's USB cable and power before opening the case. Take photos of the existing lever orientation, wiring, and screw positions to help with reassembly and input checks.

STEP 02

Check Collar Clearance and Mounting Points

Confirm that the selected Full Collar or Mid Collar clears the top panel. Before securing the mounting plate, check that there is enough room for the lower shaft and wiring. Do not force parts into holes or mounting points that do not fit.

STEP 03

Check the Grip and Lower Components

If the shaft turns while you tighten the grip, hold it steady with a correctly sized flat-head screwdriver in the slot at the bottom of the shaft. Do not overtighten. Check that the actuator is correctly assembled and that the E-Clip is fully seated in the shaft groove.

STEP 04

Connect the Wiring and Test Every Direction

Connect the switch terminals without stretching or pinching the wires. Remove your hands and tools from the case, then reconnect power. Use an input test screen or practice mode to check up, down, left, right, diagonals, and neutral. Once everything works correctly, disconnect power again and close the bottom panel.

If a Direction Registers in Reverse

Disconnect power, then check your wiring photos and PCB pinout to correct the signal connection for the affected direction. Identify the common ground and directional signal wires rather than relying on wire colors alone. Check the connections before attempting to bend any microswitch levers.